Landfall in Neko Harbour

Landfall in Neko Harbour

The Sea Explorer has made it down the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula to Advord Bay, an invagination that is only 30 miles from the Wedell Sea on the east side. As we penetrate deep into this cove, I'm captivated by the splendid mountains and glaciers that line the landscape. Castellated icebergs are plentiful, and I start to discern outlines of wildlife in the distance.

The Tabular Icebergs of Antarctic Sound

The Tabular Icebergs of Antarctic Sound

Having completed our morning excursion to Brown Bluff, the Sea Explorer is now heading north-west through the Antarctic Sound en-route to our next landing site, Neko Harbor, on the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula. This is no ordinary sea excursion; an incredible number of tabular icebergs, both large and small, are omnipresent. In fact, this is known as "Iceberg Alley," aptly named by team members of the Swedish South Polar Expedition of 1903.

A Trip Through Antarctic Sound to Brown Bluff

A Trip Through Antarctic Sound to Brown Bluff

The excursion this morning has been through the Antarctic Sound on our way to Brown Bluff, our first landfall on the Antarctic Continent. As the Sea Explorer powers towards our disembarkation site, we're blessed with viewing multiple tabular icebergs along the way in beautiful morning light.

Elephant Island, the Gateway to Antarctica

Elephant Island, the Gateway to Antarctica

It's storming on South Georgia Island today. The Sea Explorer is tossing and turning in large ocean swells. Our normal itinerary for today has gone out the window. The group leader of our trip is in consultation with the captain of the ship in an attempt to develop an alternative plan. A decision is made to enter the Drygalski Fjord on the southern part of the island. None of the staff has ever been to this bay before. We are told to remember, "flexibility is the key."

Touring Drygalski Fjord, South Georgia Island

Touring Drygalski Fjord, South Georgia Island

It's storming on South Georgia Island today. The Sea Explorer is tossing and turning in large ocean swells. Our normal itinerary for today has gone out the window. The group leader of our trip is in consultation with the captain of the ship in an attempt to develop an alternative plan. A decision is made to enter the Drygalski Fjord on the southern part of the island. None of the staff has ever been to this bay before. We are told to remember, "flexibility is the key."

A Visit to Gold Harbour, South Georgia Island

A Visit to Gold Harbour, South Georgia Island

Several times on our trip down the eastern side of South Georgia Island, the weather has become an issue. Today we were supposed to make landfall on Cooper Bay. With the wind kicking up and large waves rocking the Sea Explorer, this destination is cancelled for now. I guess I will get further along in my novel, waiting for an improvement in the ambient conditions.

Grytviken, a Whaling Station in Antarctic Waters

Grytviken, a Whaling Station in Antarctic Waters

This afternoon we are fortunate enough to visit Grytviken on a sunny day. Under blue skies with relatively warm temperatures, landfall is made. This allows us to pay a call to the cemetery where Sir Ernest Shackleton is buried, hike up a mountain trail with vistas of the bay, and tour the remnants of this whaling town.

An Excursion to St. Andrew's Bay, South Georgia Island

An Excursion to St. Andrew's Bay, South Georgia Island

Overnight, the Sea Explorer has made its way to the north coast of South Georgia, just south of Mount Skittle, where St. Andrew's Bay becomes visible. The ship anchors at a comfortable distance from shore, and I can see hordes of king penguins interspersed with elephant seals. What a scene—I'm excited!

An Afternoon in Cumberland East Bay, South Georgia Island

An Afternoon in Cumberland East Bay, South Georgia Island

It is morning aboard the Sea Explorer. Looking out of the porthole in my room, rough seas and storming skies stare me in the face. We are supposed to make landings on Fortuna Bay and Stromness on South Georgia Island today, but from what I can tell, I'll be reading my book, working on my pictures and attending lectures instead.

An Evening on the Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island

An Evening on the Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island

I'm back on the Sea Explorer after having toured Prion Islet. My normal modus operandi has been to download my photos from a shoot, start editing them and then lie down for a while before dinner. On this day, however, the normal schedule is not going to happen. The weather has improved, and now a landing on Salisbury Plain appears feasible. I'm told that we will be having an early dinner, hopping on our zodiacs and motoring to this site, one of the highlights of our trip thus far.